A year spent making grape biomaterial in the South of France

It may well sound like the premise for an A-list romantic comedy, but – looking back on 2024 – the reality, it's safe to say, is somewhat removed from that hazy Hollywood fantasy. 

Now, that isn't to say it's not exciting – it is. (Or it is to us, anyway.) And that isn't to say there weren't highs, lows, and unexpected plot twists – there always are, of course. It isn't even to suggest that the whole thing is totally unromantic in practice – we're not made of stone, after all.

Instead, what it means is that the year just gone was categorised – more than anything – by  immense effort, by trial and error, by new connections made and by new ways of working. And, to that end, we wanted to put together a round-up of sorts – a kind of document of last year’s trials, tribulations and its many successes; a way of illustrating the intricacies of navigating #nextgen #materials and the often decidedly less forward-thinking world of the fashion industry. A reminder that – for every step backward – there's a step-and-a-half forward to be taken. Which, admittedly, isn't exactly beating the rom-com accusations now that we think about it. 

“We were hoping to have produced our first roll of grape biomaterial at the end of 2024, but we had last minute challenges with the pre-production hand-made samples and the differing types of grape marc that we were trialing,” says Planet Of The Grapes founder Samantha Mureau, reflecting on her expectations for how last year ought to have ended and where the company found itself at the end of December. “The surface of the material wasn't as smooth and velvety as it has been with other grape varieties, which is an interesting observation in itself – we’re constantly learning as we're experimenting.”

And such, of course, is the nature of progress – it’s always moving forward, but it isn’t always linear. There are never – or, at least, hardly ever – any straight lines when it comes to creating, and even fewer when what you’re creating (or trying to create) is change.

“We found ourselves ending on a high note in a different way,” Mureau says, having seemingly found herself on a different but no less exciting trajectory for the year. “We were over the moon to have had our grape biomaterial samples showcased at the Vogue Business, Fashion Futures Event at the Design Museum in London. 

“The event brought together thought leaders, designers and startup founders to discuss the changes coming in fashion. This was very much thanks to Joey 🌱 Pringle, of Veshin Factory, who made the most of his space to highlight 10 companies that he'd like to work with in the near future, including our grape biomaterial."